Udaipur, it's got it all!!

I'm sitting here writing this as I listen to Luke having a sitar lesson from a local musician. He has just begun so still sound s a bit scratchy. I have high hopes for him in an hours time though!!

There are many lessons on offer here in India, and not just lessons in patience! You can take classes in music, art, cookery, henna tattooing, massage and yoga. If you want to expand your abilities, India is certainly the place to do so.

Ayurveda is one of the most interesting practises we have found. It is an ancient complex of science teamed with Indian herbal medicine and healing. There are Ayurveda hospitals in most cities. You can walk in, tell them your ailment and they will crush a potion of natural goodness right in front of you , for very low prices. Ayurveda healing massages are also conducted. Luke was talked into having a head massage and he said he literally felt like he had a new head afterwards! It seems like a really great practise that is non existent in the west so I'd like to look into it a bit more when we're here.

So, a little more about the beautiful city of Udaipur. We arrived here yesterday morning by sleeper train. We left Bundi at 2am and arrived in Udaipur at 7.30am. It was a very easy journey and I it was actually one of the best sleeps I've had in a while!

air con!

Dubbed the most romantic location in Rajasthan, Udaipur definitely lives up to its dreamy reputation. The moment we got here we felt like we had travelled back to some where in Italy, it was strange! The city is built alongside a huge lake which houses the Lake Palace featured in James Bond's Octopussy. Different height houses, built like lego blocks line the lake side. Again, the roof top gardens here are incredible. This morning I sat drinking chai and losing my thoughts in Pichola Lake. I surveyed the dhobi-wallahs (washer people) as they cleaned their clothes at the laundry ghats. The echoes of their sticks beating the fabric could be heard vibrating across the lake. Other women were bathing themselves and their young children. Groups of mischievous kids darted across the water chasing each other and splashed about joyfully. Men line the ghats alongside the river, sitting down gossipping and playing cards.

washer women at the bank of the lake

intense sunshine!

The Lake Palace featured in James Bond's Octopussy

Although Udaipur is a big city, it feels incredibly laid back when you walk along the streets. There is plenty to do and see here. The City Palace is an obvious choice, looming over the lake in its grandeur. We explored the palace on our first day. Half of it is preserved as a museum which showcases intensely dressed rooms that wouldn't look out of place in one of Tim Burton's dreams. Although the kitsch decoration was impressive, it was no match for the magical presence which we discovered in the crumbling Bundi Palace.

Afterwards, we wandered around the streets and found a puppet shop. If we were not in a Tim Burton dream before we certainly were now!! Hundreds of eyes followed us as we quietly explored the room, introducing ourselves to the different characters. Each and every one was unique and told its own story. The owner has been a puppeteer for many years, touring throughout Europe showcasing his ancient skill. He treated us to a show in a small theatre like room he had built at the back of his showroom. We watched in awe as fantastical Indian women danced their way across the floor lifting their dresses and curtsying to us! He also brought us upstairs to show us the workshop where one Indian man spends hours carving, painting, stitching and perfecting these fantastic creations.

I have never been one for dolls. Even when I was little my toy of choice was my train track. However, when we were in the shop Luke pointed out one doll in particular who was like no other in the room. I instantly fell in love. Completely hand stitched, the Indian lady showcased a beautifully voluptuous dress with long platted hair and greeting us with a Namasté. She lives with us now :)

Last night we finally got to see The Avengers and it was EPIC! I love going to the cinema, it's like instantly being transported home. The Celebration Mall was a very impressive art deco style building and was quite unlike any other mall we have been to. The mall is 4km outside the city. You can imagine our horror when we came out of the movie at 10pm to a huge rain storm and not a rickshaw in sight in the bay that earlier housed about thirty different drivers, all vying for our business!

We waited on the road for a while but not one rickshaw passed. I went back into the centre and asked the manager to help us. He came outside and by chance, a rickshaw pulled in. Our Indian aid spoke with the driver and told him where we needed to go. He regrettably turned around and told us that the driver wanted 300rupees for the trip that previously in the day cost just 100! He knew we were at his peril! We haggled for a while and eventually got him down to 250rs. When we reached the guest house we realised we only had 220rupees with us. We explained this but unimpressed his demanded the full 250rs. We tried our best to explain that that was still a more than generous price but he was not interested and his anger continued to grow.

Inspired by Scarlette Johnson's heroism in the film, I stopped, looked him dead in the eyes and demanded that if he was so upset, he needed to call the police. I would gladly explain the situation and how he was unhappy with the extortionate money he was charging us. I would ask the police their opinion.

His eyes quietly met the floor and we left.

Don't mess with Indian Lisa I tell you!!

Anyway, we are very happy here in Udaipur. I have no idea where the train will take us next, our plans change daily so who knows! For now we are very content perched on the shores of Pichola.