8th March 2012 journey Malaysia to Thailand

The sleeper bus last night was much nicer than the one we had coming to Malaysia, actually slept quite well. It would have been perfect if it hadn't been for the two hour hanging around at the border crossing.
We got to Had Yai at 7am and booked onto another bus to take us to Hua Hin....it's 7pm and We're still on the bus, think there's another two hours to go. Luke's Mum is in Hua Hin though, she arrived last night with one of her friends so we're really looking forward to spending a few days with them.
Have nothing to report from today, just a numb bum!!

.....continued at a later date....

IF ONLY WE KNEW AT 7PM WHAT WAS AHEAD OF US!!!

So the first bus was ten hours long. We boarded the next bus to Hua Hin. At about 8pm we passed the first sign for the turn off to Hua Hin, we were both elated because we knew the journey was almost complete. Bus failed to turn off at exit. Hmmmmm. Twenty minutes later, we see another sign, thinking the driver was obviously waiting for this turn, but no, we continue to cruise past. A few minutes later we are back on a motor way with no idea where we're headed or what's happening.

I turned to the Thai guy beside me and ask if he's going to Hua Hin. He looks at me perplexed and says this bus is heading for Bangkok...BANGKOK!!!!!!! Two hours from Hua Hin. We ask him to explain to the driver that we bought tickets for Hua Hin and they both start laughing, along with the rest of the bus.
After a few minutes of the bus driver cracking his jokes and keeping everyone else rightly entertained we shouted at the driver to stop, not knowing what else to do. Again, there is laughter and we are ignored. We shout again and again until forty minutes later, the driver pulls over.

No one on the bus has good English and the communication barrier is frustrating to say the least. He stopped at the side of a deserted road at a bus stop and told us to get out and wait there for the next bus back to Hua Hin...keeping in mind it's now 9pm, the roads are extremely quiet and we haven't seen a bus pass in a long time.

We argue that we are not getting out here with no guarantee that we can get back to Hua Hin, after paying above costs for our bus ticket. Another hour of arguing passes and he does a U turn, takes us to this shop at the side of the road and gives a Thai lady some money to flag down a bus for us and they continue onwards to Bangkok. Could you imagine if we were asleep and not seen the turn off signs.

Anyway, after another half hour a mini bus pulls over and agrees to take us back to Hua Hin.

We eventually get in at 11pm, find a guest house, and set off to find Luke's mum. Maria's staying in the Hilton, you can imagine the state of the two of us smelly people walking in! We asked the receptionist to call her room and a very sleepy voice responded! Mia got out of bed and came down to find us in the lobby. It was so surreal seeing her after saying such a teary goodbye six weeks ago. We went outside, sat by the pool and had a bear...in absolute luxury! Mia filled us in on everything from home, at 2am we called it a night and went to have a well deserved sleep after our epic journey!!!

5th February 2012 - Orang Asli Tribe visit

Last night we finished the first series of The Killing. Not sure if I mentioned it before but we started watching it in Kanchaburi and any night we weren't out we'd watch an episode. I have to say it's the best series I've ever followed. There were five episodes left to end the series and we watched every one of them in one sitting...each an hour long! I would seriously recommend a download if you haven't seen it already!

Anyway, today we went back to the rainforest. We organised a tour to visit the Orang Asli tribe. They are an aboriginal tribe who have spent their life living deep in the jungle. We took a boat down to them, was pretty happy with that because it would have meant we would trek for hours to get there otherwise!
We pulled up at the river bank about 40minutes away from where we had set off. There are ten families living in the settlement and each family has about six kids. The kids were so beautiful. The women too, dressed in their bright colour wrap around dresses with flowers stuck in their Afro hair.

We had some time to walk around the village and observe their habitat. There were many different shaped and sized huts. Our guide explained that it was the women's job to build the huts, when the men spent their time hunting. I have to say, the ladies can build a good shelter!

The tribe used to live much deeper in the forest but our guide explained that they have other needs now so have moved to a more accessible location so boats can reach them. They have needs like us too I guess. It was quite funny to see batches of bread and bottles of ketchup in their kitchens! They get grant aid from the government and receive a cut of the tourist fee when we go to see their village so they use this money to buy necessities, while still relying heavily on hunting.

taking in the washing!

Our guide explained how they have to move in the rainy season. He pointed out the level to which the flooding occurs and it was shocking to see actually how high the river rises. The tribe must also leave their settlement when someone in the village dies. The body is carried deep into the forest, wrapped in bark and raised high onto a platform in the tree. The tribe must set up a new village elsewhere and can return to their own village after about six months.

We were also told about their native language which was really interesting. They basically name objects after how it sounds! We were introduced to the tribal leader who explained some of these words to us. He also demonstrated how to start a fire, which he did a million time faster than Bear Grylls..Luke was in awe!

He introduced us to their lethal weapon, which is the equivalent of our gun. Its basically a really long bamboo stick with a ball of resin at the end. There is a hole in the resin where a sharpened dart is inserted and stuffed down with a leaf. You then blow through the resin ball and the dart fires. It's a very clever system as it's totally silent. That way, if you miss the animal it is not frightened away so you can fire again.

the black dart is the poisoned one!

We all had a go and it was shocking to see how powerful and efficient it is! We fired regular darts but he cautiously showed us some poisoned darts too. He explained that if the dart entered the prey at 1cm the animal would be paralysed and at 2cm, it would be killed instantly. We all backed away from the poisoned darts!!

After two hours our time with the settlement was up and the kids waved goodbye. It was a fantastic experience seeing life at its most primitive.

We travelled back up the river through the rapids and got completely soaked. It was a much welcomed cool down! Afterwards, we had dinner on one of the floating restaurants...I had rice instead of noodles today! We sat at the edge of the restaurant with our feet in the river and watched yet another thunder storm roll in. Some people dedicate their life to chasing storms, I'm beginning to think the storms are getting a good kick out of chasing us!!

Sunday 4th February Taman Negara

So the night bus isn't so great! I felt like I didn't sleep a wink but the nine hours passed so fast that I must have. If I did it was the most broken sleep of all time! We got to Jerantaut at 7am and left the bus there to wait for another connecting one to Kaman Negara.

I felt awful when I first woke but the minute we stepped off the bus all was good. It was the freshest morning we've seen since leaving Ireland. Jerantut is surrounded by jungle so each direction we looked we could see low lying mist hanging over luscious palm trees, it was so refreshing.

 
Our bus arrived an hour later and we set off for Taman Negara. The drive lasted about an hour and a half on an ancient handcrafted bus! The road on either side was surrounded by jungle the entire way and as the sun rose the real beauty of the land became apparent.

Before we knew it we were in Taman Negara. There isn't even a real village, just a couple of small shops that the locals use, no 7/11's, no Mc Donalds, it is worlds apart from where we had just come.
We followed a small road and came upon random signs for guesthouses along the way. We kept searching until we found somewhere vacant and cheap, setting up in the Durian Challet. Nice hut, basic as we have become accustomed to but as this stage as long as there are clean sheets and a roof over our head we're happy!

Had a little nap then set off for the rainforest. Taman Negara is the oldest rainforest in the world and we are staying on its doorstep, it's crazy! We registered with the park Marshall, got our permit and went in to explore. There are lots of huge trails you can do but we decided to take it easy today because we're still like zombies!

We headed straight for the canopy walk. Towering above the jungle at 40m high and 540m long, Its the highest and longest canopy walk in the world. We walked for 2km, passing by towering trees and treading over enormous leaves that paved the floor, this was a walk like no other. We got to the beginning of the canopy walk and climbed the steps until we were almost level with the tallest trees. Taking that first step out onto the rope bridge was pretty scary! Walking one person at a time, the elevated path shakes and rocks with every step. I became comfortable with it pretty quick and really enjoyed this exploration, on another level!

We made our way back to the village then and had food in the floating restaurant. Noodles for breakfast, noodles for dinner...think we will turn into noodles soon! We are both completely zapped of all energy so make our way slowly back to our chalet in the outskirts of the jungle. Sitting outside writing this being harassed by mosquitoes..couldn't think of a better place to be right now.

we watched this local man fishing as we ate

night falling over the rainforest

The journey here was difficult but absolutely worth it. I'm happy we're getting to see this flip side to Malaysia, it will definitely make us leave with a greater appreciation of the country.

3rd March - Penang to Taman Negara

I can't believe it's the third of March!!! Time is flying! I remember being just a few days into our travelling when we were in Kanchanaburi. I was asking myself how was I going to do this trip, it just seemed so immense, but now it's just so normal. If I had to stop now and go back to reality it would be so disappointing. It's mad how you settle in to something so new.

We're on the bus to Taman Negara at the moment. Its a 10hour journey, six hours on the night bus, then we arrive somewhere at 4am and have to arrange our own transport onwards to Taman Negara so who knows how long or even how we will get there, but there's always a way!

Today we relaxed. I read the paper, Luke edited his photos, very nice to actually chill out. We need to start allocating more time for that in our journey. When we get somewhere we feel you have to go everywhere see everything but they the days you have to yourself are just as important I guess.
I leave Penang with a different view to when we arrived. Although it is shockingly built up in still has some beautiful architecture and wonderful people. I'm excited to get moving again though and check out this rainforest.

Going to try get some sleep although the gear box on this bus sounds like it could explode at any minute. Better dig the ear plugs out of my bag and hope for the best!

March 2nd - -Penang

We've been trying to arrange to get to Taman Negara over the last few days. It's the third oldest rainforest in the world so we definitely need to see it. Again, getting information from people is impossible. This was supposed to be out chill out day but we have to get the ferry over to the main town of Butterworth and sort out our bus ticket from there.

As we were waiting for the bus to the jetty a Pakistani man started talking to us. That's one thing I've really noticed here. The people are more brash, especially in markets and shops, they really in your face which isn't so nice but on the flip side, the more elderly people are super friendly and are always mad for a chat. We've randomly ended up talking to lots of people like that since arriving here and they all speak so positively about life, what lies ahead of us etc. Very cool.

After a while we realised we were at the wrong stop anyway so said our goodbyes and walked there instead. The ferry system is very efficent and we were on it within minutes. We bought our ticket to Taman Negara and made our way back to Georgetown. As we set off we could see dark menacing clouds rolling in from the horizon. Before we knew it we were right in the middle ofa thunder storm. There have been so many storms since arriving here it crazy. I love lightening spotting though, so thrilling.

We got back to Georgetown, completely soaked and headed to little India for food. We have gone there every night and each Indian dish we've gotten has been amazing. I am in my eliment with the food!!

1st March 2010 Penang National Park

Today we set off to see Penang National Park. It was about an hour away from Georgetown. I rocked up in a maxi dress and sandals with a tiny bit of water and no food...if only i Knew what was in store!
The national park is basically a jungle! Off we set anyway. The first part had paved pathways so I thought because it was a national park, they had developed it so it was a casual jungle experience. No no Lisa you silly thing!

dressed perfectly for the occasion of course!

They have a canopy walk there so we made our way towards that. To our disappointment it was closed. Probably for maintenance we thought. We noticed what looked like a path running beneath it so we said we'd start trekking that way. The path soon disappeared and we were battling through bushes, climbing over fallen trees, dismantling spider webs daring to block our path..it was a proper jungle experience.

Luke started talking about jumping spiders and we saw a few few really massive webs. Needless to say I was crapping myself! I couldn't stop moving in case one of them jumped or crawled on my feet so any time we stopped for a break I was walking on the spot in the hope of avoiding such an unwelcoming encounter!
As we walked a big monkey crossed in front of us. He stopped and stared as us with not so friendly eyes. I was waiting for him to start a scrap but after he finished eyeballing us her set off once more. At this stage we had been walking for two hours and not passed a soul..strange considering we were in a national park trawling with tourists!

Dragen flies chase each other in circles around us

We walked for another half hour and finally came to an opening in the bush leading up a small hill. As we got closer we could see red tape tied to two trees blocking the path. To my horror there was a sign on it saying the canopy walk has been closed since May 2011 due to an outbreak of disease in that particular area. It was advised that no one should proceed on that particular part of the jungle trek! How lovely!
If Luke and myself are struck down with any strange illness over the next few weeks you know what's happened!

Anyway we got back on the main path and saw a sign for a beach . Off we set again through more jungle, although this path was completely clear and much more walker friendly! The heat was immense. As my sweaty feet slipped about in my sandals I literally thought I was going to pass out. For breakfast that morning I had half a slice of watermelon and half a banana...not sufficient energy for hours trekking around in jungle heat. I was cursing how unprepared we were.

After an hour we got down to the beach. As we crossed the rope bridge there were a group of Malaysians with a camera crew coming straight for us, I didn't like the look of it one bit! hey explained that they were working for Tourism Malaysia and asked if we would be in their video as it would be great to show two authentic pasties in their video! We walked over the bridge a few times, pretending to point at things and take photos..all I wanted to do was get into the sea!

They eventually left and we headed towards the water, only to realise our boat back to the entrance of the park was about to leave. Rather than trekking the whole way back we opted to leave the swim and cruise back in comfort.

I will never leave for such an excursion so unprepared again!!

The fall from grace!

The fall from grace!!!!!!!
Thought it would be funny to show you a picture of where we're staying now compared to where we began! We're propper backpackers now!!

The Civillian's Inn, Penang

Shanghai mansion Bangkok