5th February 2012 - Orang Asli Tribe visit

Last night we finished the first series of The Killing. Not sure if I mentioned it before but we started watching it in Kanchaburi and any night we weren't out we'd watch an episode. I have to say it's the best series I've ever followed. There were five episodes left to end the series and we watched every one of them in one sitting...each an hour long! I would seriously recommend a download if you haven't seen it already!

Anyway, today we went back to the rainforest. We organised a tour to visit the Orang Asli tribe. They are an aboriginal tribe who have spent their life living deep in the jungle. We took a boat down to them, was pretty happy with that because it would have meant we would trek for hours to get there otherwise!
We pulled up at the river bank about 40minutes away from where we had set off. There are ten families living in the settlement and each family has about six kids. The kids were so beautiful. The women too, dressed in their bright colour wrap around dresses with flowers stuck in their Afro hair.

We had some time to walk around the village and observe their habitat. There were many different shaped and sized huts. Our guide explained that it was the women's job to build the huts, when the men spent their time hunting. I have to say, the ladies can build a good shelter!

The tribe used to live much deeper in the forest but our guide explained that they have other needs now so have moved to a more accessible location so boats can reach them. They have needs like us too I guess. It was quite funny to see batches of bread and bottles of ketchup in their kitchens! They get grant aid from the government and receive a cut of the tourist fee when we go to see their village so they use this money to buy necessities, while still relying heavily on hunting.

taking in the washing!

Our guide explained how they have to move in the rainy season. He pointed out the level to which the flooding occurs and it was shocking to see actually how high the river rises. The tribe must also leave their settlement when someone in the village dies. The body is carried deep into the forest, wrapped in bark and raised high onto a platform in the tree. The tribe must set up a new village elsewhere and can return to their own village after about six months.

We were also told about their native language which was really interesting. They basically name objects after how it sounds! We were introduced to the tribal leader who explained some of these words to us. He also demonstrated how to start a fire, which he did a million time faster than Bear Grylls..Luke was in awe!

He introduced us to their lethal weapon, which is the equivalent of our gun. Its basically a really long bamboo stick with a ball of resin at the end. There is a hole in the resin where a sharpened dart is inserted and stuffed down with a leaf. You then blow through the resin ball and the dart fires. It's a very clever system as it's totally silent. That way, if you miss the animal it is not frightened away so you can fire again.

the black dart is the poisoned one!

We all had a go and it was shocking to see how powerful and efficient it is! We fired regular darts but he cautiously showed us some poisoned darts too. He explained that if the dart entered the prey at 1cm the animal would be paralysed and at 2cm, it would be killed instantly. We all backed away from the poisoned darts!!

After two hours our time with the settlement was up and the kids waved goodbye. It was a fantastic experience seeing life at its most primitive.

We travelled back up the river through the rapids and got completely soaked. It was a much welcomed cool down! Afterwards, we had dinner on one of the floating restaurants...I had rice instead of noodles today! We sat at the edge of the restaurant with our feet in the river and watched yet another thunder storm roll in. Some people dedicate their life to chasing storms, I'm beginning to think the storms are getting a good kick out of chasing us!!

Sunday 4th February Taman Negara

So the night bus isn't so great! I felt like I didn't sleep a wink but the nine hours passed so fast that I must have. If I did it was the most broken sleep of all time! We got to Jerantaut at 7am and left the bus there to wait for another connecting one to Kaman Negara.

I felt awful when I first woke but the minute we stepped off the bus all was good. It was the freshest morning we've seen since leaving Ireland. Jerantut is surrounded by jungle so each direction we looked we could see low lying mist hanging over luscious palm trees, it was so refreshing.

 
Our bus arrived an hour later and we set off for Taman Negara. The drive lasted about an hour and a half on an ancient handcrafted bus! The road on either side was surrounded by jungle the entire way and as the sun rose the real beauty of the land became apparent.

Before we knew it we were in Taman Negara. There isn't even a real village, just a couple of small shops that the locals use, no 7/11's, no Mc Donalds, it is worlds apart from where we had just come.
We followed a small road and came upon random signs for guesthouses along the way. We kept searching until we found somewhere vacant and cheap, setting up in the Durian Challet. Nice hut, basic as we have become accustomed to but as this stage as long as there are clean sheets and a roof over our head we're happy!

Had a little nap then set off for the rainforest. Taman Negara is the oldest rainforest in the world and we are staying on its doorstep, it's crazy! We registered with the park Marshall, got our permit and went in to explore. There are lots of huge trails you can do but we decided to take it easy today because we're still like zombies!

We headed straight for the canopy walk. Towering above the jungle at 40m high and 540m long, Its the highest and longest canopy walk in the world. We walked for 2km, passing by towering trees and treading over enormous leaves that paved the floor, this was a walk like no other. We got to the beginning of the canopy walk and climbed the steps until we were almost level with the tallest trees. Taking that first step out onto the rope bridge was pretty scary! Walking one person at a time, the elevated path shakes and rocks with every step. I became comfortable with it pretty quick and really enjoyed this exploration, on another level!

We made our way back to the village then and had food in the floating restaurant. Noodles for breakfast, noodles for dinner...think we will turn into noodles soon! We are both completely zapped of all energy so make our way slowly back to our chalet in the outskirts of the jungle. Sitting outside writing this being harassed by mosquitoes..couldn't think of a better place to be right now.

we watched this local man fishing as we ate

night falling over the rainforest

The journey here was difficult but absolutely worth it. I'm happy we're getting to see this flip side to Malaysia, it will definitely make us leave with a greater appreciation of the country.

3rd March - Penang to Taman Negara

I can't believe it's the third of March!!! Time is flying! I remember being just a few days into our travelling when we were in Kanchanaburi. I was asking myself how was I going to do this trip, it just seemed so immense, but now it's just so normal. If I had to stop now and go back to reality it would be so disappointing. It's mad how you settle in to something so new.

We're on the bus to Taman Negara at the moment. Its a 10hour journey, six hours on the night bus, then we arrive somewhere at 4am and have to arrange our own transport onwards to Taman Negara so who knows how long or even how we will get there, but there's always a way!

Today we relaxed. I read the paper, Luke edited his photos, very nice to actually chill out. We need to start allocating more time for that in our journey. When we get somewhere we feel you have to go everywhere see everything but they the days you have to yourself are just as important I guess.
I leave Penang with a different view to when we arrived. Although it is shockingly built up in still has some beautiful architecture and wonderful people. I'm excited to get moving again though and check out this rainforest.

Going to try get some sleep although the gear box on this bus sounds like it could explode at any minute. Better dig the ear plugs out of my bag and hope for the best!