Bye Bye Nepal

I am sitting in the airport getting ready to leave for New Delhi. Abilas met us this morning and came with us to wave us off.We will miss that little guy!

Abilas with his farwell presents!

It feels like we have spent far longer than one month in Nepal, it has really become a second home. The people as so welcoming and friendly and do their best to help in every way possible. We didn't move around so much this time so really got to know lots of the locals..and word travels fast in Kathmandu. There was one guy in particular who was obviously told my name by someone else and would go out of his way to shout at me any time I passed!

Even though we were staying down a very dark lane way which looked very scary at night, we were advised how it is still very safe to walk there as there is a massive presence of 'tourist police.' Basically, if something happens a tourist, or even if there is a bad tourist who accuses a Nepalese person in the wrong, they will get into huge trouble from the tourist police. In all the time I was there I genuinely felt completely safe. They really want to do their best for tourists, a massive 45%of their economy is based of the tourist boom so you can imagine how they want and need to protect this industry.

Nepal is a truly authentic country and oozes in the authenticity which is in depletion in places like Thailand and Malaysia. Driving to the airport today, I was reminded of our drive from the airport to Thamel and how my mouth hung wide open for the entire drive! Culture shock does not explain it!! It really is something that has to be seen.

The one thing I did not grow fond of during my time here is walking around the streets. There are no footpaths so you are walking on the road where there are cars, buses, motorbikes, bicycles and tuk tuks driving straight for you at every angle, hoking their horns furiously for you to get out of their way. It enraged me and I still haven't gotten used to it! That was the only negative for me though. And anyway, what you see when you walk along the roads makes up for the headaches!

I'm not sure if anywhere will ever effect me the way that Nepal has. It was my first experience in a third world country and it is one I will never forget. There is something in Nepal for everyone, trekking, boating, paragliding, shopping, eating...everyone is catered for and I have seen such a huge variety of travellers here to prove it. I have gotten a taste of this beautiful country and I will continue to return for more, I have no doubt about that

It is written everywhere and it is true...

N never

E ending

P peace

A and

L love

Friday 30th March - day 4 trekking

Tadapani - Nayapul 2670m - 1070m 16km

We woke at 6am to the sound of Abilas's voice calling for Luke! I opened the door and he damanded we get out of bed and come look at the view. We got dressed, shivering, and went outside to meet Abilas. He brought us up a hill nearby. We climbed to the top (more steps) then turned around....there was Annapourna once again, lighting up with the rising sun.

Epic

My belly has been bad since our second day here in Nepal, but I feel particullarly "crap" this morning! I'm sitting in bed at the moment until I feel a bit better then we're setting off for Ghandruk.



Our room in the tea house..really reminded us of Luke's Granny's old cottage

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So we just arrived back in Pokhara! Returned our camping gear a day early and argued until we got back the extra day we had paid for! Sitting in a restaurant now, stinkiy, tired and waiting for food!

We were supposed to split today into two parts but once we started walking we didn't stop! The day was beautiful and peaceful as we made our way down hill. Arriving in Ghandruk was like something from a film. Beautiful village built right on the side of the mountain with a perfect view of Annapourna.

AMAZING forest...could be at home :)

The further we descended however, the more mundane the walk became- no mountains, no forest, direct sunlight, steeply declining rocks and dusty dirt roads.

We started to think we should have broken it into two days but it was too late now!! However, we didn't have it as bad as some people...

porters carrying gear uphill



son carrying his father who was shouting "I am the Lord Buddah!!!!!"

We put our heads down and continued walking and at 4pm we arrived in Nayapul....happy days!!! It wasn't until later that I realised we has walked 16km in total that day...and it bloody felt like we had too!

We climbed through the village up onto the road and there was a bus to Pokhara waiting, it seemed too good to be true. Sort of was, it was the scariest bus jounrey yet! The driver was doing about 60mph, thundering down dusty roads on the cliff face. He hit four different bumps that actually made us raise from our seats - like something you'd see in a cartoon! I hit my jaw off Luke's shoulder one of the times and it bloody hurt!

I was pretty sure we were going to become a statistic.

But thankfully, we made it back in perfect condition! We're going to buy a bottle of whiskey now and have a well deserved drink to soothe our aching muscles!!!!!!

Trekking was amazing but we are tired!

Thursday 29th March - Day 3 Trekking...part2!

Ghoropani - Tadapani 2750m - 2670m

So we trekked back down from Poon Hill, had breakfast and then left for Tadapani with Abilas. Another seven hours trekking. The first hour was really tough up hill. This time it felt different though, there we breaks every few hundred meters and everyone sat around together taking their time, there was no rush and there was a really good buzz around. Poon Hill energy I do believe!

                         

As we were climbing up, you turn around every so often and BAM! Annapourna is proudly standing in front of us again. Epic.

After this hour it was mostly downhill through beautiful forest. The Rhododendron trees have blossomed just this month and they are scattered everywhere, brightening up the landscape and dispersing their beautiful scent throughout the air. The forest walk was really beautiful and again, felt quite like home.

Abilas taking a break with his ridiculous load

I knew the downhill was too good to be true and sure enough, the final two hours were uphill once more. I never thought Tadapani would appear! But alas, we scaled another steep set of steps, turned a bend, and hallelujah! Prayer flags dancing in the distance...we had reached Tadapani!!!!

It had been raining for about an hour at this stage , for the first time since we got to Nepal. We found a tea house and lay down on our beds..completely numb! We were SO cold last night. We forgot to pack our sleeping bags and the tea houses just provide a single sheet over the mattress so we had been using them and our puffa jackets as blankets. Freezing! I chanced asking for a blanket in this place and we were given two heavy duvets...oh happy day!! Why had we not asked sooner!!!!

We had dinner with Abilas and spent the evening walking around the village listening to India pop songs on his phone. He is such a great guy. Just turned 20 and he's doing this to pay his college fees in Kathmandu. Luke and myself have sort of adopted him as a little brother.

Before we said goodnight we gave him a little piece of paper with our contact details on and and a small amount of money for him to put into his savings. I swear if I was a wealthier person there on holiday I would have become his sponsor.

Abilas :)

He went off to bed and Luke and myself went back to the dining room and sat by the wood burning stove. We thought a Nepalis guy how to play switch so we sat playing with him for a while, he beat us at almost every game!!!!

Had a great night sleep for the first time since leaving :)

Thurs 29th march - day 3 Poon Hill

Gheoropani - Poon hill 2750m- 3200m

We are just down from Poon Hill. I still don't quite know how to feel. I feel like I need to have the biggest cry in the world but it's just stuck inside and I can't. Very strange emotion! It was the most surreal morning of my life.

We got up at 4am and left for the final leg of the trek up to Poon Hill. The moment I woke I was already shivering. Didn't take too long to heat up as we met more steps, steeper than ever, and began to climb the final 450m. The climb was so misleading. We could see a massive incline of steps and then flat surface..leading you to believe it was the top. Each time we believed we were there but always there was another climb.

Behind us we could see the first tiny break of blue light far over the mountains. This spurred us on and we didn't dare stop for fear of missing the big show at the top.

An hour later we were 3010m high in Poon Hill. I couldn't believe what was before us, again writing this as I eat breakfast I am almost in tears! We counted just four other people on top when we got there. We were still in darkness but the light was beginning to change...you know like when you're walking home from a party in the summer?

Luke befriended a puppy!

Gradually more people arrived. We stood, shivering, transfixed on the mountain before us as. After another hour, and with about 100 more people, we saw the bright ball of fire appear over one of the peaks. It quickly rose, sending its rays straight across the horizon, lighting up Annapourna.

It is the most incredible thing I have ever whitnessed. We stood, paralysed in awe. I can't explain our feelings. A cocktail of exaustion, tension, excitement, bewilderment, confusion, respect and exhilliration. It packed a bloody punch!!

Luke wearing Stevie's shirt :)

Luke & Abilas

After pushing ourselves so hard the last few days, I really felt like we deserved every second of what we felt and saw. If we could have just arrived there by mini bus I don't think it would have had nearly as big an impact.

The air at the top was so pure and cold. It felt just like a Winter's morning at home. For the first time I actually felt really homesick, if there was a plane waiting for us on top I think we would have boarded and come stright home, very content.

I should also mention that Luke smoked his last cigarette on top of Poon Hill this morning...if he can stick to it, it's a pretty cool place to leave it behind. You can do it Lukey!!!!

28th March - day 2 Trekking

Tikhedunga - Ghorepani 1250m climb

We left at 8am. Had a good sleep. The walls are like paper in the tea house and it was very noisy but by 10pm there was total silence! The joys of trekking!

So, today was the tough day. We set off and were straight into the uphill struggle. Unlike yesterday, when the steps rose at a slight incline, this was pure uphill...like that horrible stepping machine in the gym!

After 3hrs we got to Uliri. I was so happy to see the sign!!! We stopped there to rest for about half an hour, then continued on towards Ghoropani...another four hours uphill! They call this part of the trek the 3000steps which sounds bad..then we talked to a local person who told us its actually 3700..so....its the 4000 steps!!!

We reached the top of one hill and turned around to see our first glimpse of one of Annapourna's peaks. We couldn't believe our eyes. It was like it was placed there to spurr us on. It shook the exhaustion away and made us focus on why this would be completely worth it!

stopping for a break..about to pass out!

..and then we turn to see this and don't feel so bad any more!

After a couple of hours we entered the forest which gave some much needed shade. The climb was still bloody hard though! We met the porter Ablias (Aston) from yesterday and walked with him for the last two hours. We stopped for a rest and Luke asked Abilas if he could lift his bag. Luke struggled and guessed it weighed about 50kg which is RIDICULOUS!!! I have NO idea how he was doing it.

Luke carrying Abilas's bag

We continued walking uphill and eventually reached Ghoropani..it was a total relief!! Trekking is definitely tough. Abilas keeps telling us to 'slowly' move forward whenever we meet so I have adopted a new mantra which I say in my head with each step, "slowly, slowly, moving, forward." It really helps to get into a walking rhythm.

We just finished the best noodles I have ever tasted...might have something to do with how little we ate today (two slices of toast and a snickers!!) Not sufficient energy fuel really!